Fashion 1707

Fashion Profile

2012-02-19T05:27:00.000-08:00

KELLY TANDIONO

THE ENIGMATIC LOOK OF INDONESIA'S RISING BEAUTY

Image Courtesy of Anton Jhonsen Photography

Intrigues of a woman's look, physique, and poise will always arouse an enigma. It is within these qualities women form a sultry confidence that shapes a luscious demeanor that draws people's courtesy and attention. A model in every way is a medium and a palette that transcends ideas and values, for which means a model must have a versatile look that could mesmerizes accordingly to those who glance at her. Kelly Tandiono the self-proclaimed tomboy, is one of Indonesia's most prominent supermodel that has grace not only national magazines and runways, but has also made it in the international scene strutting her cat-like move at Calvin Klein's, and starring at an Elle Macpherson's commercial. With that beautiful oriental face of hers, and that pair of cat-like squinty-eye, a luscious red lips, and a long straight black as night hair, Kelly is one of the most sought after model in Indonesia with looks that intrigues whomever with awe. Her look is an enigma that has struck us with mystery.

Tatapan, tubuh, dan keanggunan seorang wanita selalu membawa intrik yang mengundang sebuah misteri yang dipertanyakan. Dan melalui tatapan, tubuh, dan keanggunan ini-lah seorang wanita mengembangkan sebuah kepercayaan diri yang mengoda, kepercayaan diri ini yang kemudian membentuk sebuah sikap yang mengundang perhatian banyak orang. Seorang model dari segala sisi dapat dikatakan merupakan sebuah medium yang dipergunakan untuk menyampaikan secara maksimal nilai-nilai yang ingin disampaikan. Oleh karena itu, seorang peragawati pun harus dapat memiliki penampilan yang beragam untuk dapat menyampaikan berbagai nilai tersebut. Kelly Tandiono seorang peragawati Indonesia yang menyebut dirinya sendiri sebagai seorang tomboy, merupakan salah seorang peragawati paling tenar di Indonesia. Tidak hanya berkarya dalam negeri, Kelly pun telah berkarya di luar negeri. Dengan wajah orientalnya yang menarik, dan dengan tatapan mata yang begitu tajam, sebuah bibir merah yang sensual, dan rambut hitam panjang indah Kelly merupakan salah seorang model yang paling dicari di Indonesia.

In this post we will bring to you the world of modeling through Kelly Tandiono's life story, how even as a teenager Kelly who once never dreamt of becoming a model worked hard to get signed with an agency. Kelly shared on what does it takes to become a great model both in the national circuit and in the international circuit through her opinion. And how does the competition amongst models feels like in the international scene.

Dalam post ini, kami akan memberikan anda gambaran akan dunia peragawati melalui cerita kehidupan Kelly Tandiono, bagaimana Kelly yang pertama tidak menduga bahwa ia dapat menjadi seorang model berish keras dan berusaha untuk dapat dikontrak dengan sebuah agensi peragawati. Bagaimana Kelly berbagi mengenai kunci kesuksesan untuk menjadi seorang peragawati baik di dalam negeri mau pun di luar negeri. Kelly pun menjelaskan kompetisi yang terjadi di dalam dunia internasional di antara peragawati.

ENGLISH VERSION

Could you tell us a bit of what you were like as a child? Were you a girly girl who always liked fashion? Or were you the kind of kid who studied all the time? What and when, and how did you first fell in love with fashion?

When I was a child I was such a rebel and a tomboy. Even in school I was Kelly "The Trouble Maker", fighting with boys, skipping classes, and making a lot of problems for my parents. I never really thought I would actually fell in love with fashion moreover, a model.

Could you share us a bit of how did you first had the idea of becoming a model? Did your friends or family agree with the idea of you becoming a model?

Well I actually had the first idea when I got scouted in the age of 14 years old. I was walking around a mall and was asked if I was interested to be a model. Never thought about it since my mom disagrees with the idea of me modeling at such a young age.

So while I was doing my university in Singapore and I found myself some spare time, I just went to an agency called Mannequin. I was very happy that they took me in without any experience or portfolio and I've been modeling ever since.

Would you say that a model needs to be “discovered” in order to become successful? Or is it more important to have perseverance and a “work hard” attitude?

I believe its a little bit of both. As for me I did work hard and also been discovered as it is a word of mouth so it does help, in spite that I believe I have a very good attitude and personality where people love working with me as I try to achieve a harmonious work environment.

When you decided to start modeling what was the first thing that you do? Did you get sign with an agency? Or did you build a portfolio first?

Actually I was very lucky enough to have been accepted without any experience or portfolio. Maybe I was young and they saw potential so they were willing to work and build me to be a good model.

Could you share us your first experience in trying to be signed with an agency? What did they asked you to do on that first agency that signed you?

Well i never really had that so much of an experience. Just that you have to be professional. Being on time, make sure you go to all your jobs, work harmoniously with the client, keep your figure, etc.

Could you share us your first experience in professional modeling? What was it?

My very first experience was a fashion show for Calvin Klein. Was so excited about it because Mr. Calvin Klein himself was the one who did the casting. Was so happy.

Out of the numbers of Indonesian fashion designer that you’ve worked with, which designer you liked the most?

I love Oscar Lawalata, Biyan, Adrian, Sebastian Gunawan, Auguste Soesastro, Priyo Oktaviano, I can make you a long list there are many talented indonesian fashion designer and they are all very nice to work with.

How was the competition with other models in the international scene? How does one be on top in a casting?

It's very different. As first of all they categorize you in a certain look. Mostly my competition would be other asian girls from Korea, Japan, China. And in a casting I try to be myself and be confident. Sometimes it helps for you to be yourself, because they see or feel of what you're like in a casting, it'll help book jobs.

Do you have any model that you see as an inspiration?

Freya Beha, really love her look and style.

If there’s any company (magazines or design houses) that you could work with? What will it be?

VOGUE (all caps locked by Kelly herself)

What’s next for Kelly Tandiono? We heard that you would like to become a designer. What will you design?

Yes I'm trying to do a lot of things. Acting, designing, singing. I want to have an open option and work towards whats best for me for the future.

But my first priority right now will be to design. I'm going to a fashion design school around June or July to learn the basics of fashion design. I would say I would go for ready to wear and simple elegant dresses.

Image Courtesy of B-Management

Image Courtesy of Fashion Model Directory

INDONESIAN VERSION

Bisakah Kelly mendeskripsikan; bagaimana sih Kelly ketika remaja? Apakah sudah dari dahulu suka sama fesyen, yang berteman dengan sesama pecinta fesyen?Atau apakah Kelly seorang murid yang suka belajar? Kapan, dan mengapa Kelly jatuh cinta dengan fesyen?

Ketika saya masih kecil, saya adalah seorang anak yang suka memberontak dan sangat tomboy. Bahkan di dalam sekolah saya dikenal dengan Kelly "The Trouble Maker", berkelahi dengan yang lelaki, bolos dari kelas, membuat banyak masalah untuk orang tua. Sebenarnya saya tidak pernah berpikir bahwa saya akan jatuh cinta dengan fesyen, apalagi mejadi model.

 Sebenarnya sejak kapan sih Kely berpikir untuk berprofesi sebagai seorang model? Apakah teman-teman dan orang tua setuju dengan keinginan Kelly untuk menjadi seorang model? 

Well... Pertama kali saya mendapatkan ide untuk menjadi seorang model itu ketika saya berumur 14 tahun ketika saya di-scouted. Saya sedang berjalan-jalan di mal dan seseorang bertanya jikalau saya mau menjadi seorang model. Tapi setelah itu, saya ga berpikir untuk menjadi seorang model karena Ibu saya melarang saya untuk menjadi seorang model di umur yang masih sangat muda. 

Jadi ketika saya sedang menjalani studi universitas saya di Singapore saya menemukan waktu luang, jadi saya pun pergi ke sebuah agensi model bernama Mannequin. Saya sangatlah senang karena saya diterima tanpa bekal pengalaman atau pun portfolio sejak saat itu saya pun mulai modeling.   

Apakah menurut Kelly seorang model harus "ditemukan" untuk menjadi sukses? Atau apakah yang menentukan adalah sikap "bersikeras" dan tindakan kerja keras?

  Saya percaya butuh sedikit dari keduanya. Untuk saya sendiri dapat dibilang saya itu "ditemukan" dan telah berkerja keras dan berkat word of mouth maka karir pun melesat, selain itu saya pun percaya saya memiliki etika kerja yang baik dan karakter yang baik dimana orang-orang menyukai berkerja dengan saya akibat usaha saya untuk menciptakan lingkungan kerja yang harmonis.

Hal pertama yang dilakukan ketika ingin Kelly telah memutuskan untuk menjadi model apa? Apakah Kelly mecoba untuk dikontrak dengan sebuah agensi? Atau apakah Kelly mencoba untuk membuat portfolio terlebih dahulu?

Sebenarnya saya menganggap diri saya sebagai seseorag yang sangat beruntung, karena saya diterima oleh sebuah agensi tanpa pengalaman atau pun sebuah portfolio. Mungkin hal tersebut terjadi karena saya muda dan mereka melihat adanya potensi, so… mereka rela untuk berkerja dan menjadikan saya seorang model yang baik.

Bisakah Kelly berbagi mengenai pertama kalinya Kelly berusaha untuk dikontrak dengan sebuah agensi? Saat itu apakah yang agensi modeling tersebut minta kepada Kelly untuk Kelly lakukan?

Well saya tidak memiliki begitu banyak pengalaman. Hanya yang saya dapat bagikan ialah bagaimana kita harus bersikap professional. Being on time, make sure you go to all your jobs, dan berkerja dengan sejahtera dengan sang klien, pertahankan figure badan anda, dsb.

Bisakah Kelly berbagi mengenai pengalaman pertama kalinya Kelly melakukan pekerjaan professional modeling?   

Pengalaman pertama saya ialah sebuah pergaan busana oleh Calvin Klein. Saya sangat-lah excited mengenai pekerjaan ini, karena Mr. Calvin Klein sendiri yang melakukan casting-nya. Saya sangat senang.

Dari beberapa banyak desainer yang Kelly telah berkerja untuk, siapakah yang Kelly paling senangi untuk berkerja sama?  

I love Oscar Lawalata, Biyan, Adrian, Sebastian Gunawan, Auguste Soesastro, Priyo Oktaviano, I can make you a long list there are many talented Indonesian fashion designer and they are all very nice to work with.  

Bagaimanakah pertandingan para model dalam arena internasional? Bagaimanakah seseorang dapat menjadi yang palingunggul dalam bertanding?   

Pertama-tama pertandingannya sangat berbeda ya dengan yang terjadi di Indonesia. Pertama mereka mengkategorikan kamu sesuai dengan “look” kamu. Sebagian besar kompetisi saya adalah gadis Asia lainnya dari Korea, Jepang, dan Cina. Dan untuk memenangkan perhatian mereka, dalam casting saya mencoba untuk menjadi diri saya sendiri dan berkepercayaan diri. Terkadang dengan menjadi diri sendiri membantu, karena mereka dapat melihat dan merasakan relasi mengenai bagaimana diri Anda sebenarnya, dan ini akan membantuk Anda untuk di book untuk pekerjaan.

Model yang Kelly lihat sebagai inspirasi?

  Freya Beha, really love her look and style.  

Jikalau dapat berkerja bagi perusahaan apa pun di luar sana, baik media mau pun design house Kelly ingin berkerja untuk siapa?   

VOGUE (Semua di caps locked oleh Kelly sendiri)  

What’s next for Kelly Tandiono? Kami dengar Kelly ingin menjadi desainer ya? Kira-kira apa yang akan Kelly desain? Lini prêt-a-port atau couture?

Ya, saya mencoba untuk melakukan berbagai macam hal. Acting, designing, and singing. Saya ingin memiliki opsi yang terbuka, dan untuk mendapat kesempatan dalam memilih profesi yang terbaik untuk masa depan saya.

 Tetapi prioritas utama saya untuk saat ini adalah desain. Saya akan enroll ke sebuah fashion design school sekitar Juni atau Juli untuk mempelajari dasar dari fashion desain. Saya akan mencoba untuk mendesain ready to wear dan simple elegant dresses.

Image Courtesy of Bonniedegio Blogspot

The model in her own outfit at Dewi's 20th Anniversary Celebration
Image Courtesy of Dewi Magazine

Image Courtesy of Finroll

Her day to day style remains true to childhood sense of style, claiming to be a tomboy since she's a little girl nowadays Kelly is sporting an androgynous casual chic look that is a mix of urban fashion savvy with a touch of masculinity. Preferring to wear laid back clothes such as jeans and t-shirts in her daily wear. There's no stopping this rising beauty, with her ambition and drive we will sure see a lot of great things from Kelly Tandiono. Her combination of beauty, fashion flair, and wit will undoubtably make this enigmatic face a force to be reckon with in our fashion industry.

Pakaian kesehariannya pun selalu true dengan sense of style yang Kelly miliki sejak kecil, dengan klaim bahwa sejak kecil ia merupakan seorang yang tomboy hari-hari ini Kelly sering kali terlihat menampilkan look yang androgonis dan casual chic, percampuran antara gaya urban dengan sentuhan maskulin. Wanita cantik ini lebih memilih pakaian yang santai seperti jeans dan t-shirts dalam kesehariannya. Sepertinya tidak akan ada yang dapat menghentikan gadis cantik berwajah oriental ini, dengan ambisi dan dorongan yang ia miliki tentunya kita akan melihat hal-hal hebat dari Kelly Tandiono. Kombinasi akan kecantikan, kemampuan fesyen, dan kepintarannya akan tanpa diragukan lagi membuat wanita ini mejadi sebuah kekuatan baru di dalam industri mode dalam negeri.

Fashion Insight

2012-02-07T18:33:00.000-08:00

COURAGEOUS NINA

A WOMAN WITHOUT AN IOTA OF DISCOURAGE

Image Courtesy of Nina Nikicio

In this world where prejudice and preconceived thoughts of others ruled a person's decision, one must ask themselves whether to follow this unfavorable thoughts or to act against it and act in what they believe. Choices need courage, are we supposed to do the things that people expect us to do? Or are we suppose to do things that we love and believe? Many times the design industry is seen as something which has a vague future, especially with fashion design of ready to wear clothing in Indonesia where the industry is ruled by global fashion labels such as Zara, Topshop, Banana Republic, etc. Are we suppose to give in to those challenges and prejudice? No. All you need to do is to be courageous, one girl proved it and right now she's one of the most sought after ready to wear designer in Indonesia, her name is Nina. Nina Nikicio.

Prasangka dan pikiran yang menghakimi telah sejak lama mendikte setiap tingkah laku seseorang. Oleh karena itu dalam menghadapi situasi sebagai demikian seseorang harus bertanya kepada dirinya sendiri; haruskah saya bertindak sesuai terhadap prasangka dan tuntutan umum ini? Atau haruskah saya bertindak melawannya untuk membuktikan apa yang saya ketahui dan saya yakini? Sering kali indutri desain digambarkan untuk memiliki masa depan yang tidak jelas, terutama fesyen desain bagi lini siap pakai dimana industri ini dikuasai oleh merek-merek fesyen global seperti Zara, Toshop, Banana Republic, dll. Apakah kita harus menyerah terhadap prasangka dan praduga yang menghakimi ini? Tidak. Satu hal yang harus seseorang lakukan ialah untuk memiliki keberanian, satu individu telah membuktikan keberanian tersebut dan hari ini beliau merupakan salah satu desainer pakaian siap pakai paling dicari di Indonesia, ia bernama Nina. Nina Nikicio.

Image Courtesy of Nina Nikicio

In this post, we will try to inspire you through Nina Nikico's life journeys; how even since she was a little girl she has always knew where her future and passion lies upon, how she question herself in her youth and then pull through it with the rough remarks from her parents, and how she beliefs that courage is the key of being a successful individual.

Dalam post ini, kami akan mencoba untuk memberikan insiprasi Anda melalui jalan hidup seorang Nina Nikicio. Bagaimana Nina, sejak masa kecilnya sudah mengetahui dimana masa depannya dan hal apa yang harus ia lakukan di dalam hidupnya, begitu juga bagaimana di dalam masa remajanya ia mulai mempertanyakan tujuan hidupnya dimana ia berhasil bangkit melalui dukungan "keras" orang tuanya, bagaimana Nina percaya bahwa keberanian adalah kunci dari kesuksesan.

ENGLISH VERSION

Could you describe us a bit of what you were like in elementary school or junior high? Were you the kind of gal who was all about fashion and hung out with people who was into fashion?

I think you can say that i'am a weird girl. You see i was in St. Ursula for elementary school and junior high, but then in highschool i switched school to Bina Nusantara where i majored in arts. So you could probably say i'm weird... (Laughs) Artsy i was! Arts.

So you were artsy. Then is it true that you always knew that fashion is your life's calling? Or were you like one of us, who are still confused with what should we do with our life? If so since when did you know?

Junior high... No! Elementary... No! The eighth grade! Yes, i remember it exactly that in the eighth grade i knew i want to be a modern fashion designer. So i started to drew things, so that one day i could be a fashion designer. But when i was in the eleventh grade though... I seriously considered on becoming a professional painter. But then my dad was like "What are you going to eat with that profession?" (Laughs) So i went back to the original plan.

You were going to paint? (Laughs) Tell us, who inspires you into becoming a fashion designer? Or what kind of life's experience that you went through that enabled you the thought of becoming into a designer?

I think it was around kindergarden, my grandmother owns a fabric store, and a lot of the times i spent my time there. With all of that fabrics, i played and pretend i was this alien monsters made out of fabrics (Laughs). That's probably is the beginning of my love towards textile. Since then i always love quality fabric, ones that are great, ones that have quality, and ones that are comfortable to be worn. I dislike fabrics that you know is easily ruin when you feel it, i dislike fabrics that are rough and low in quality. So that's why Nikicio as a brand always pick the quality fabrics.

So when you were in the eighth grade, did you tell your parents that you wanted to be a designer? What was their reaction?

My parents were okay with it, they never disapprove me for my choice. They let me be who i wanna be. They only question me that one time... Professional artist/painter? "What are you going to eat?"

Do you have any other interest? Other hobby? If you could be anything you want, what will you be?

I don't think there's any other profession that i have interest in. (Laughs) I really don't know how to answer that question. If somebody asks me what i would like to do if i weren't a fashion designer, i would always answer them "a stylist". Fashion yet again.

Do you have any future goal for Nikicio as a brand? Where do you want to market it, other than in Indonesia and Singapore?

Umh, we're going to try Hong Kong, Asia primarily. We tried Australia before, and it didn't work. But that's okay, we're gonna keep on trying! You know our label is still considerably very young, its only 4 years old. So... There's still a lot of rooms to grow, there's a lot of rooms to improve.

Last question! When you first launch Nikicio it was back on 2007 yes? And we felt that Nikicio was particularly groundbreaking in terms of selling methods and market segment, because back then online shopping is still something that's new, and local brand were just starting to lift off. From these experience do you have any advice for a designer-to-be out there?

Just be courageous. You know... Don't care what anybody say. Because me, myself when i first started this business, no body was doing ready to wear, all were couture. But i gain my courage and keep ON doing my ready to wear. And people were like "Kok?!" But that's me.... "Emang kenapa? Gue memang ga suka evening wear gitu. Itu bukan style gue." I do realize that every once in a while i have to put on a gown, probably i'm going to wear one for my wedding. What i'm trying to say is that i want to make a wearable clothing, for people and for me to wear, clothes that are easy and effortless.

So. You're gonna be designing your own wedding gown?

Insyaallah... (Laughs)

INDONESIAN VERSION

Bisa tolong jelaskan, dulu ketika di elementary school atau junior high seorang Nina Nikicio itu seperti apa? Apakah dari semasa sekolah sudah hang out dengan teman yang menyukai fesyen? Atau?

Dari dulu, gue kayaknya... Aneh ya. Gwe masuk Santa Ursula waktu SMP. SD, SMP terus waktu SMA gue masuk Bina Nusantara dan memang udah langsung mengambil arts. Jadi gue emang aneh mungkinnya. (Tertawa) Memang seni gue.... seni.

Oh, jadi memang dari dahulu sudah artsy ya. Lalu apakah dari dulu memang Nina sudah tahu bahwa fesyen sebagai life's calling? Atau apakah Nina seperti kami ini nih? College students yang masih terbilang bingung dengan jalan hidup.

SMP... Kayaknya SD deh... SMP kelas dua! Gue inget banget. SMP kelas dua gue inget banget bahwa gue pengen menjadi modernization designer. Jadi gue dah mulai gambar-gambar segala macem, itu semuanya pas SMP kelas dua. Tapi pas kuliah, eh pas SMA kelas dua sempet berkeinginan menjadi pelukis. Cuma gue diomelin sama Bapak gue, "Loe mau makan apa nyet?"(Tertawa) Jadi akhirnya balik lagi...

Pelukis? (Tertawa) Lalu siapa sih yang menginspirasi Nina menjadi fesyen desainer? Atau pengalaman apa yang menginspirasi Nina menjadi fesyen desainer?

Kayaknya sih dari kecil... Dari TK kalau ga salah, itu oma gue punya toko kain. Terus waktu TK itu, gue-kan selalu dititipin di rumah oma gue, dan gue suka pura-pura jadi monster kain dari luar angkasa (Tertawa) Jadi mungkin kecintaan gue dimulai dari tekstil itu sendiri. Jadi gue tuh suka sama bahan yang bagus, bahan yang nyaman, yang comfortable. Gue tuh ga suka sama bahan yang kalau yang dipegang terus... Kasar. Atau bahan yang dipegang terus kita tau nih... Yah sebentaran rusak. Gitu... Makanya gue ga suka tuh yang begitu, makanya Nikicio pun bahannya bener-bener dipilih ga sembarangan.

Waktu SMP kelas dua ketika Nina mencetuskan keinginan untuk jadi desainer. Orang tua bagaimana? Ada yang larang?

Bokap nyokap gue ga pernah ngelarang sih. Mereka membiarkan gue menjadi apa aja yang gue mau. Cuma pelukis itu doang yang ditanya sih... "Mau makan apa?"

Lalu ada ketertarikan lain ga selain fesyen? Hobby lain mungkin?

Ga ada sih... (Tertawa) Emang gue dah ga tau mau jadi apa. Kalau ditanya gue mau jadi apa... Kalau bukan fesyen desainer... Gue selalu jawab stylist... Muter-muter ya selalu fesyen.

Masa depannya brand Nikico bagaimana nih sebagai label? Mau masuk kemana lagi selain Indonesia dan Singapore?

Umh... Kita mau coba Hong Kong, Asia dulu sih tapi. Kita mau coba Hong Kong, Malaysia... You know we tried Australia before, it didn't work. Tapi gapapa, kita akan coba terus. Usia brand kita sendiri masih sangat muda gitu, baru empat tahun. So... There's still a lot of rooms to grow, there's a lot of rooms buat improve.

Pertanyaan terakhir nih Nina. Waktu pertama kali Nina meluncurkan Nikicio itu-kan ditahun 2007 dimana kami melihat Nina sangatlah groundbreaking karena saat itu brand lokal terbilang push-nya belum banyak dan konsep online store belum hype. Dari hal ini saran Nina untuk seorang desainer di luar sana apa sih?

Berani aja sih. Ya, you know... Don't care what anybody say. Soalnya gue juga pada saat mulai ga ada yang mikir tentang ready to wear, semua couture dan terus gue melanjutkan dengan ready to wear gue... Dan itu lumayan... "Kok?!" Tapi gue ya... "Emang kenapa? Gue memang ga suka evening wear gitu. Itu bukan style gue." Memang sih gue sendiri perlu pake gown, mungkin ntar kawin gue pake gaun. Maksud gue, gue mau membuat pakaian untuk sehari-hari gitu aja sih sebenernya. Untuk orang lain dan untuk gue yang mudah untuk gue pake.

Jadi kalau kawin mau desain baju sendiri nih?

Insyaallah... (Tertawa)

Image Courtesy of Edge Models Jakarta

Perseverance, courage, and focus are the things that you could say made Nikicio's success, in a way we are all alike with Nina; we are the kind of people who knows exactly what we want, but obstacles such as prejudice dan feelings of discourage limits and even change our course of life. The difference lies with the values which each of us bring to the table in dwelling with these limitation. What we could learn from Nina's story is to always be persevere, courageous, and focus in what we want, in this world of subjectivity and vast differences, your visions are bound to have an align perception, do not question your uniqueness. It is as what the market say as the competitive advantage.

Keteguhan, keberanian, dan fokus dapat dikatakan sebagai tiga hal yang menghasilkan kesuksesan Nikicio. Satu hal yang perlu kita semua sadari ialah bahwa pada esensinya kita semua merupakan manusia yang mengetahui apa yang kita inginkan. Perbedaan yang ada ialah bagaimana kita dapat menyikapi tantangan-tantangan yang menghalangi diri kita dari mencapai apa yang sebenarnya kita ingin capai. Jadilah teguh, berani, dan fokus. Di dalam dunia yang penuh dengan subjektifitas dan pandangan yang beragam, tentunya pandangan ada yang dianggap berbeda akan memiliki satu pikiran yang berpandangan yang sama.

Runway Reports

2011-11-20T08:37:00.000-08:00

DEWI FASHION KNIGHTS

CELEBRATING WOMEN

Picture Courtesy of Viva News

It was a pitch black scene, whereas whispers, and small clicking noises of cameras were heard across the hallow tent of Jakarta Fashion Week, Indonesia's fashion royals were waiting anxiously for Dewi's Fashion Knights show to start. Dewi Fashion Knights is an annual show which showcases Indonesian most prominent fashion designers, and this year Dewi Magazine has chose the theme of Celebrating Women, where Auguste Soesatro, Sally Koeswanto, Sapto Djojokartiko, Sebastian Gunawan, and Indonesia's current rising dark horse Tex Saverio will present their new collection. As the show was starting, the black scenery was broken by a dramatic lullaby and a graphic on the backdrop screen of the runway spelling the name Sebastian Gunawan. And the show began, and we from Fashion 1707 have all the exclusive details.

Seiring dengan pemandangan yang begitu gelap, bisikan, dan suara clicking dari kamera para fotografer mengisi tenda keramat dari Jakarta Fashion Week, dimana para bangsawan fesyen Indonesia sedang menunggu dengan penuh antisipasi untuk dimulainya acara Dewi Fashion Knights. Dewi Fashion Knights adalah sebuah acara tahunan yang mempertunjukan para maestro fesyen desainer Indonesia, dan tahun ini Majalah Dewi telah memilih sebuah tema; Celebrating Women untuk mengikat show yang paling dinanti dalam Jakarta Fashion Week ini. Auguste Soesastro, Sally Koeswanto, Sapto Djojokartiko, Sebastian Gunawan, dan Tex Saverio sang talenta yang tengah mengundang begitu banyak perhatian akan menunjukan koleksi terbaru mereka. Kegelapan tersebut pun dipecahkan dengan iringan musik dramatis dan sebuah grafik pada backdrop screen yang mengeja Sebastian Gunawan. Dan acara pun dimulai, tim Fashion 1707 pun hadir untuk melaporkannya secara eksklusif.

SEBASTIAN GUNAWAN

Bold, daring, yet wearable was the first impression that struck us who attend the show. Models were dressed in a cleverly tribal inspired printed dresses, creating a cohesive look through out the entire collection that showed the story of an elegant, sophisticated, edgy, value oriented tribal women. In a way Sebastian was trying to create a look that celebrate women who are strong, full of elegance and finesse, and very edgy, creating looks that clashes between a tribal women with an out of this world dark noble creature, the story was emphasized with dramatic tune that was played to tie the whole presentation and a graphic video of red sand dune desert was playing on the backdrop. Stiff black fringes accessorized the pieces, creating an edge for the loose drapery dresses by Heliopolis.

Black, white, red, yellow dominated the collection in a tribal print, Sebastian also played with sheer fabrics, and silks that are loose but with an added edge by making a structured shape using shoulder pads and stiff black fringes. Dresses in a-line shaped hanged above the knee may seem to be too vulgar but were made demure and bold in its pairing with tabasco red stockings and matching red wedge-like heels. There were also high waisted loose strapless gowns, halter dresses, and even two pieces look from sleeveless black laced white top with an oxford collar paired with a printed skirts. The tribal print was the highlight of the collection, it is truly an amazing wearable collection.

Bold, daring, tetapi masih bisa dikenakan merupakan impresi pertama kami yang hadir di acara tersebut. Para model mengenakan gaun-gaun bercorak tribal menciptakan looks yang kohesif untuk seluruh koleksi Sebastian Gunawan. Cerita di balik koleksi tersebut seakan-akan menceritakan essensi wanita yang elegant, edgy, tetapi masih berorientasi nilai luhur, seorang wanita tribal yang kuat, penuh dengan keanggunan dan finesse. Terdapat perpaduan dramatisasi cerita antara seorang wanita kesukuan dengan mahluk gelap berdarah bangsawan, dramatisasi ini pun digarisbawahi dengan iringan lagu dramatis, dan video grafik akan padang pasir merah. Rumbai kaku hitam pun mengaksesoriskan potongan-potongan koleksi Sebastian, memberikan edge bagi gaun yang loose tersebut oleh Heliopolis.

Hitam, putih, merah, dan kuning mendominasi koleksi yang ada dengan perpaduan corak tribal, Sebastian pun bermain dengan berbagai kain transparan, dan kain sutera yang loose tetapi diberikan edge dengan memberikan struktur bentuk dalam shoulder pads, dan rumbai hitam kaku. Gaun dalam potongan a-line menggantung diatas dengkul mungkin terlihat begitu vulgar, tetapi berhasil dibuat demure dengan menggunakan stocking berwarna merah tabasco dan sepatu berbentuk wedge-like heels. Selain itu juga terdapat high waisted strapless printed gowns, gaun halter, dan beberapa two pieces look dimana Sebastian memasangkan top putih tanpa lengan yang dihiasi dengan renda hitam dan dengan kerah oxford. Corak tribal merupakan atraksi utama dari koleksi Sebastian, sebuah koleksi yang sungguh dapat dikenakan.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

AUGUSTE SOESASTRO

As the glossy black runway was reflecting the video backdrop of Auguste Soesastro's testimonials the same thing goes on for Auguste's collection, the difference is; Auguste's collection is reflecting his life purpose on creating a line which pays tributes to the earth. Couture which comes from natural fibre, a tribute to earth is Auguste's credo, and we really do see his passion for mother earth from his collection. Out of the 5 designers that showcased their collection, we have to say that his collection probably is the most emotional imprinted show of them all. The first look was this petite model with almost nude make up, with her hair pulled up into a bun wearing a two piece look in cream and white, it was an outfit out of a perfectly tailored pants with an structural oversized jacket over an oversized top. As the models were gracefully taking slow steps over one feet on the other we noticed the cream and transparent Manolo Blahnik kitten heels the models are wearing.

Melodramatic tune and a visual graphic of a deserted desert with a death tree standing awkwardly on the middle of it accompanied the models in the runway presentation. Clinical; where the color of cream dominated the collection, and demure; with the simple yet polished craftsmanship of the pieces, the collection is elegant with that understated femme sophistication, something that's truly is suitable for professional women in the world. Our favorite look was when this model comes out with what at first seems like a deconstructed orange silk dress, but as the she was walking she opened the dress up into a huge coat with a floor length black dress in it. What so special about the show was the closing look, it was a model with two child model wearing a cream crisp gown with long cape as its train and as they were walking through the runway the dramatic tune climaxes the story where you would definitely feel the homage that Auguste is trying to pay to mother earth, in a way the model is portraying the goodness within mother earth; a mother with her children.

Sebagaimana runway hitam yang glossy tersebut merefleksikan semua visual feast dari screen backdrop runway tersebut, hal yang sama juga dapat dikatakan pada koleksi Auguste Soesastro. Perbedaannya koleksi Auguste merefleksikan tujuan hidup Auguste yang mencoba untuk menciptakan sebuah lini yang memberikan tribute kepada bumi pertiwi. Couture which comes from natural fibre, a tribute to earth; adalah credo dari Auguste. Dapat dikatakan bahwa dari kelima show yang telah dilaksanakan di dalam Dewi Fashion Knights, presentasi dari Auguste inilah yang berhasil menyentuh hati kami secara emosional. Tampilan pertama merupakan seorang model mungil dengan make up yang hampir nude, dengan rambut diikat menjadi bun yang menggunakan sebuah tailored pants dengan oversized jacket diatas sebuah oversized top yang berwarna cream dan putih. Seiring para model dengan penuh keanggunan secara perlahan mengambil langkah mereka, terlihatlah kitten heels Manolo Blahnik dengan perpaduan bahan warna cream dan transparnt yang begitu demure. Nada lantunan melodramatis dengan video yang menampilkan sebuah padang pasir dengan pohon kering berdiri dengan awkward ditengah gurun tersebut.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

SALLY KOESWANTO

Heritage and culture in fashion is something inspiring but when it's mixed with today's modern take and philosophy it becomes something extraordinary, Sally Koeswanto's collection is full of both; heritage and modern take philosophy. It becomes something that's out of this world and extraordinary. You can definitely tell the story she was trying to the deliver in her presentation, an evolution of women in the personification of a magnificent creature with poise and grand elegance just like a peacock.

Leather, sequins, metallics, and lace in leotards, halter tops, and backless gowns. The whole look of Sally's designs gave a sultry feel that is both strong and embodies flirtation. Sally Koeswanto delivers a collection that's full of asian heritage, playing with cheongsam and kimono top where the traditional look was made modern with the use of bold colors and accessories. Sally tried to celebrate all different kinds of women; one that's strong; with the use of laced top blue pastel leotard and gladiator detailed leather pants, one that's full of poise; with the use a bold metallic cheongsam with peacock tail embroidery details, and one that's edgy and fun; with the use of and oversized kimono top paired with a cream short and a gladiator boots. We could definitely say that Sally really does succeed to celebrate Asian women with a modern take that is both sensual and strong.

Warisan dan budaya merupakan sesuatu yang sering kali menjadi sumber inspirasi di dunia fesyen, tetapi ketika inspirasi dipadukan dengan tanggapan yang moderen, warisan tersebut menjadi sesuatu yang sangat menajubkan. Koleksi Sally Koeswanto mennujukan suatu koleksi yang penuh dengan warisan dan pandangan moderen, koleksinya seolah-olah menceritakan sesuatu yang berasal dari luar dunia dimana terdapat perpaduan menarik antara wanita yang menggunakan pakaiannya. Cerita akan evolusi wanita dipersonifikasikan dengan mahluk anggun yang penuh dengan poise seumpama seekor burung cendrawasih.

Kulit, manik-manik, warna metalik, dan renda dipadukan dalam tampilan leotards, atasan halter, dan gaun backless. Seluruh penampilan yang diberikan oleh Sally menunjukan suatu perasaan yang sensual dan tetap kuat. Desain yang diberikan mempersembahkan warisan Asia dimana Sally bermain dengan bentuk cheongsam, dan kimono top yang merupakan sesuatu yang tadinya tradisional tetapi dibuat moderen dengan penggunaan warna yang bold, dan aksesoris. Kami dapat berkata bahwa Sally sungguh-sungguh merayakan wanita Asia dengan pandangan moderen akan sensualitas dan penuh dengan kekuatan.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

SAPTO DJOJOKARTIKO

Great craftsmanship combined with great designs creates great fashion that is Sapto Djojokartiko. This maestro never fails to amaze us who's been in awe since the very first time we saw his creations. It was a twist of sophistication with what we call as "dramatic glamour", where the use of great embroidery, avant-garde lace, and the unconventional brooch made it a raw yet magnificent collection. Gold, black, shimmering silver and copper colored dresses were presented through out the show with models in towering wedges, Sapto even uses once again his iconic fur extensions as the mermaid bottom for one of his dress. The models had straight hairs, and were accessorized with laced mask and shimmering mask making the story of a dark goddesses that is poise and full of dramatic glamour. It was a celebration of women with a sense of passion for something that's unconventionally dark but still urges for glamour.

Teknik eksekusi yang baik dipadukan dengan desain yang indah menciptakan fesyen yang menajubkan dalam nama Sapto Djojokartiko. Maestro ini tidak pernah gagal dalam mempesona kami yang telah jatuh cinta sejak pertmaa kali kami melihat koleksinya. Dalam Dewi Fashion Knights 2011, Sapto memberikan koleksi yang penuh dengan keanggunan diselaraskan dengan apa yang kami sebut dengan glamour yang penuh dengan drama, dimana penggunaan embroidey, renda yang avant-garde, dan penggunaan peniti yang tidak konvensional memberikan sebuah koleksi yang penuh dengan keagunagan yang terasa begitu baru dan mentah. Emas, hitam, shimmering silver, dan tembaga menjadi warna untuk gaun-gaun yang diciptakan oleh Sapto, dan Sapto pun menggunakan kembali bulu ekstension yang tadinya ia gunakan di dalam koleksi lalu-nya untuk salah satu mermaid bottom dalam gaunnya.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

TEX SAVERIO

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

DEWI FASHION KNIGHTS

JAKARTA FASHION WEEK 2012

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

Runway Spotlight

2011-11-14T18:06:00.000-08:00

RADENRORO

A WAKE UP CALL FOR INDONESIA

Radenroro Spring Summer 2012

Courtesy of On The Racks and 24Hpp

Radenroro is a New York based fashion house, started by an Indonesian native designer; Liquica Anggraini Raden Roro. Liquica studied at FIT and with the help from her husband, she started the line Radenroro. The line itself was featured on the hit tv show All On The Line with Elle's Creative Director Joe Zee. The line as it is stated on its website is often described as daring yet wearable with a superb construction and the use of great fabrics. What we do love about the line is that it emphasizes on its dedication to Indonesian culture, using Indonesian terms and words for its collection pieces. Even the name itself originated from Indonesian aristocratic title; Raden. The other competitive advantage of Radenroro is that, in a way the line has set itself apart for the main stream customers, whilst many premium fashion houses aims for the more high-end market and women with age. Radenroro's collection

is more vibrant and youthful, playing with bold colors, clean cut lines, and colorful prints.

Radenroro adalah sebuah rumah mode milik seorang desainer kelahiran Indonesia yang berdiri di New York, Amerika Serikat. Liquica Anggraini Raden Roro merintis ilmu di FIT atau Fashion Institute of Technology, dan dengan pertolongan suaminya Liquicia berhasil membangun usahanya tersebut. Suatu kali Radenroro berhasil di fiturkan di tv show bergengsi bersama Direktur Kreatif Majalah Elle USA Joe Zee. Sebagaimana telah terpampang di dalam websitenya, Radenroro menggaris bawahi dalam dedikasinya terhadap Indonesia, penggunaan bahan yang berkualitas, dan teknik penjahitan yang sempurna. Radenroro menggunakan budaya Indonesia dalam hal penamaan tiap buah koleksinya, bahkan nama dari rumah mode ini pun diambil dari kata Indonesia, menggunakan kata Raden dan Roro. Dalam keunggulannya Radenroro telah berhasil memiliki jiwa yang tersendiri, memisahkan dirinya dari kebosanan dominasi market yang ada, dimana jikalau sebagian besar rumah mode premium menargetkan pasar bagi wanit ayang berumur, Radenroro menawarkan nilai yang berjiwa lebih muda.

Radenroro Spring Summer 2012

Courtesy of On The Racks and 24Hpp

In the spirit of spring and summer, Radenroro has displayed a very colorful collection. A neon green one shoulder dress with one draped sleeve, and a two piece look of a bright metallic gold top with a red leather short with a bow embellishment is just a preview of what's going to be a very youthful and energetic collection. As for their Fall Winter 2011 collection, Radenroro showed a more subtle yet youthful collection. Showcasing backless dresses with monochromatic colors, and silk flare trousers with a cleverly printed shirts.

Sesuai dengan semangat musim spring dan summer, Radenroro telah menampilkan sebuah koleksi yang begitu berwarna. Sebuah gaun berwarna hijau neon dengan satu sleeve yang menampilkan teknik drapping, dan sebuah penampilan dari dua pieces yang berupa sebuah atasan metalik emas, dan sebuah shorts dengan aksen pita berwarna merah dengan bahan kulit. Sedangkan untuk fall winter 2011 Radenroro dapat berhasil menampilkan sebuah koleksi yang kalem tetapi tetap berjiwa muda. Lequicia designer Indonesia yang berhasil berkiprah di panggung internasional.

Radenroro Spring Summer 2012

Courtesy of Radenroro New York

Radenroro Spring Summer 2012

Courtesy of Radenroro New York

Radenroro Fall Winter 2011

Courtesy of Radenroro New York

Fashion Insight

2011-10-11T02:20:00.000-07:00

MEDITERRANEAN croisière

A RELEVANT IDEA FOR INDONESIANS

Relevance between the eastern fashion and the western fashion is sometimes somewhat fussy. Seasonal changes doesn't apply here in Indonesia thus making a lot of fashion looks and pieces from the famed Italians, Parisians, and New Yorkers fashion houses to be irrelevant in being worn in Indonesia's warm climate. Long trench coats, fur coats, and jackets with heavy wool and mohair may seem to be fabulous pieces to be worn, but it is impossible right here in Indonesia. We Indonesian need something relevant. Something wearable. Something that suits with out mediterranean climate whilst at the same is still something that the American and European elitist would want to wear. In this special post we would like to give a little bit previews of what would come in Indonesia high-end retailers. Right from Bottega, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Burberry, their complete cruise collection that suits Indonesian fashion savvy society as well as the international jet setters of the world.

Relevansi antara fesyen bergaya kebaratan dengan gaya ketimuran terkadang merupakan sesuatu yang tidak dapat disetarakan. Pergantian musim tidak memiliki keberlakuan di Indonesia, sehingga hal tersebut sering kali membuat banyak looks dan pieces dari rumah mode terkemuka di Italia, Paris, atau pun New York menjadi irrelevan untuk digunakan di Indonesia dengan udara kita yang hangat. Long trench coats, fur coats, dan jacket berbahan wool atau mohair mungkin terlihat glamorous atau fabulous tetapi sayangnya pakaian itu tidak dapat digunakan di Indonesia. Kami orang Indonesia membutuhkan sesuatu yang relevan. Sesuatu yang dapat dipakai. Sesuatu yang sesuai bagi mediterranean climate kami tetapi pada saat yang bersamaan tetap merupakan sesuatu yang kaum fashionista Eropa dan Amerika tetap mau pakai. Dalam special post kali ini kami akan memberikan sedikit preview dari apa yang akan terpampang di high-end retailers di Indonesia. Dimulai dari Bottega, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, dan Burberry, dimana semua label ini mengeluarkan cruise collection mereka, yang kami lihat sesuai dengan fesyen Indonesia dan pada saat yang bersamaan sesuai bagi kaum jet setter dunia.

GUCCI

Black, white, with a whimsy of gold takes Gucci's cruise collection into a sophisticated yet youthful elegance that every women in every age are looking for. Even though that the majority of the collection is dominated by the color of black, white, and gold, a hint of color blocking was also seen on the collection. Touches of neon citrus lime, tabasco red flame, and marigold was seen on the boxy jackets, tapered cropped trousers, and mini shorts. It is a geometric and refined avant-garde collection that shows essential graphic chic, sculpting flashes of gold through a contemporary lens with Gucci's sacred codes of elegance.

The question is, does this collection works on Indonesian women? The answer is simply, Yes. There's no pieces which are to grand or to inappropriate to be worn on our day to day activities. Every look is especially design to a timeless aesthetic that is appropriate for Indonesian mediterranean climate. Natural solution materials, like faille made from nylon/cotton in a cleaver leno weave paired with lurex, wool cavallery, and crepe de chine or cotton voile assure the collection to be suitable in Indonesian climate. Not only the materials, but the pieces also showed a wearable looks for Indonesians women, tight angkle-length pants with darts and cuffs, and detailed with cuts and anatomical from riding pants, miniskirts with pleats carved gold, and collarless cropped jacket. Even the evening wear shows a simplify elegance, masculine touches are shown in the "new tuxedo" paired with tapered pants, and white shirts.

Hitam, putih, dengan sentuhan emas membawa koleksi cruise Gucci menjadi sesuatu yang anggun tetapi tetap begitu muda, sesuatu yang selalu didambakan oleh setiap wanita. Mayoritas koleksi musim ini didominasi oleh warna hitam, putih, dan emas, dengan gaya color blocking. Sedangkan dalam beberapa looks juga terdapat sentuhan warna neon citrus lime, tabasco red flame, dan marigold dalam boxy jackets, tapered cropped trousers, dan rok mini. Koleksi yang geometris dan beraliran avant-garde murni ini turut menampilkan graphic chic, dengan bentukan penggunaan warna emas yang ada melalui lensa kontemporer Gucci.

Pertanyaan yang kemudian tampil ke permukaan adalah apakah koleksi ini dapat digunakan oleh wanita Indonesia? Jawaban yang ada pun adalah ya. Tidak ada satu pun piece yang terlihat begitu berlebihan atau over the top untuk digunakan dalam kultur aktifitas Indonesia. Setiap look yang ditampilkan secara khusus di desain untuk memiliki keindahan yang akan selalu terlihat indah seiring melintasi waktu yang cocok bagi klimat mediteranian Indonesia. Bahan-bahan natural dari katun, wol, membuat tiap piece cocok dan sesuai bagi klimat Indonesia. Setiap look dari pakaian daywear hingga evening wear menampilkan gaya yang sangatlah cocok dengan kesederhanaan wanita Indonesia.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Fashion Insight

2011-09-03T08:14:00.000-07:00

CLIMBING THE FASHION LADDER

HOW TO BE A FASHION EDITOR WITH THORNANDES JAMES

Picture Copyright of Thornandes James

Often times many people look down upon fashion, labeling it unabashedly with beliefs that it is a very superficial industry, full of airheads, and gay men who dress flamboyantly and extravagantly. These kinds of perceptions makes it harder for people to gain the courage to take the decision to dive into the industry, especially in places like Indonesia, a very old-fashioned country. In this post, we'll discuss the story of one man that has broke through those barriers, a man who is so courages that he is able to stand up and believes in what he loves. Fashion.

Banyak waktu masyarakat menilai fesyen sebagai indutri yang sangat superficial, penuh dengan orang-orang bodoh, dan pria homoseksual yang selalu berpakaian secara flamboyant dan secara extravagant. Dan presepsi seperti inilah yang membuat banyak orang sulit untuk mendapatkan keberanian untuk masuk ke indutri fesyen, terutama di negara yang sangat old-fashioned seperti Indonesia. Dalam post ini, kami akan membahas cerita kehidupan seorang pria yang telah berhasil menembus barrier-barrier tersebut, seseorang yang telah berani untuk berdiri sendiri dengan kepercayaannya akan hal yang ia cintai, yaitu fesyen.

Picture Copyright of Thornandes James

Many of you probably have always wondered, What does fashion editors do? Do their job desc only consist of being fashionable and dressing other people fashionably too while they lead a glamorous life? Or probably you wondered Is a fashion journalism really is a real job? Can we make a living out of it? Or is it just a job for the incredibly rich socialites? Or probably (for those of you who are teens) How can i break into the fashion industry? We hope that this exposé/interview will inspire those of you who are confused whether fashion is your calling to make the right decision, we also hope that it will give you the insight you need on what to do to become a great stylist/fashion editor.

Banyak orang mungkin bertanya-tanya, Sebenarnya apa sih pekerjaan seorang editor fesyen? Apakah deskripsi pekerjaan mereka hanya sebatas terlihat stylish dan harus mendadani orang lain dengan stylish juga? Atau mungkin Anda bertanya-tanya Apakah menjadi jurnalis fesyen dapat menghasilkan hidup? Apakah itu pekerjaan? Atau apakah itu hanya perkerjaan untuk para sosialista? Atau mungkin bagi kalian para remaja, Bagaimana saya bisa memulai career di industri fesyen? Apa fesyen tepat untuk saya? Kami berharap exposé/interview ini dapat menginspirasi Anda dalam mengambil keputusan yang tepat, dan dapat memberi Anda semua pengetahuan yang dibutuhkan untuk menjadi stylist/editor/jurnalis yang baik.

par Nicoline Patricia Malina
styling, Thornandes James
makeup artist & hair, Adrian Suryapradipa/B'Mgt
assistant stylist, Rajasa Pramesywara
model, Yunn Ru/Model One HK

Could you tell us a little bit of yourself? What were you like as a teenager? Were your parents supportive with what you do?

I was definitely not a popular and fashionable kid and also not a nerdy geeky person, because my grades weren’t that good either. I was actually fat, my heaviest was like 96 kilos and known as a sort of grumpy and bitter person. And I was not that into fashion world, in fact I didn’t read any fashion magazine back then. I was more into reading comics and some Indonesian literature books and dealing with some extracurricular activities and school committee events.

Since I was a little kid, I was known as the rebellious one. I won’t follow my parents’ will without good reason; basically I am a very opinionated and hardheaded person. At first they always on the opposite of my every decision, but since a little kid I already have this belief. This is my life and nobody will take any decision of my life other than myself. For me, I want them to know that I’m the one who responsible for my own life because I’m the one who’s living it not them. But soon after I prove it, they are okay with it.

When did you first fell in love with fashion? Or at least know that you wanted to be in fashion?

I don’t remember exactly first time I fell in love with fashion. I only know I love to sketch dresses since I was little and I like to play with fabrics or tissues by draping them and it went all the way through high school, but I still wasn’t aware with fashion industry. I was trying lots of things like photography, event organizing, graphic designing, literatures, until I’m looking through my friend’s magazine, A+. At first I was not interested by the fashion, I was interested by their design and layouts, so I started to read it. Back then I was still exploring in photography and haven’t decided yet which photography direction I will go, and then I watch America’s Next Top Model Cycle 1 and from then on I was drowning myself into fashion photography which leads me into the fashion industry.

As for the collections that made me fell in awe with fashion were John Galliano for Dior Couture Spring 2004, Alexander McQueen SS 2005 It’s Only a Game and a Korean fashion show that was inspired by its national costume, Hanbok, and Anita Mui’s dramatic performance using a huge ball gown that later being peeled off and lots of children were started come out from the ball gown. I was mesmerized by their presentation.

Why styling? Why not design? Or fashion journalism? Styling isn't a common job, who inspired you to be one?

It’s just happened like that I think. I was wanted to go to ESMOD back then, but my parents won’t allow me. And when I was building my portfolio as a photographer, I don’t know anyone to help me so I literally was doing it all alone by myself. The models are my friends, I did all the makeup, I also learn makeup by myself by watching ANTM or other fashion related TV show, and I also decided what to wear, how to pose, etc. So I was actually learn became a stylist without knowing it, I even didn’t know what is a fashion stylist that time. It went on and on until I felt photography was not my thing nor makeup, and at that moment I also met another photographer and makeup artist who were clicked with me and on the same vision as I am, then I decided to let go makeup and photography world and remain with the styling, because that’s what I enjoyed the most.

I actually consider myself a fashion journalist; styling is only one part of my job. I gave myself fully to fashion because I first started in a media, so that’s what made me a fashion journalist. And mostly I did editorial shoot rather than commercial so I think it’s still in part of fashion journalism. When I firstly got into fashion media industry, SOAP Magazine, the first thing I say to my mentor, Syahmedi Dean, my objective here is to learn to write, that’s my first priority rather than styling. So styling is actually one of my job desc, but my real profession is Fashion Journalist.

I’m a big fan of Michael Pondaag since the first time I saw his work in Harper’s Bazaar Indonesia, and since then I was aware with that profession. So I may say that his works that inspired me to get into this industry.

Weren't you afraid that financially being a stylist/fashion editor wouldn't support you?

At first I never thought about it, I only wanted to do what I like, and I did, I did earn some money though it was not that big. But since I’m going independent in 2009, reality just slapped me hard on the face. I was very much in struggle to only do styling, so there I’m looking for other chances and opportunities from using my skills and experiences, consulting for example, and here I am. Three years on my own and I’m still here.

par Stanley Allan/ppf
styling, Thornandes James
wardrobe & accessories, SPOUS by Priyo Oktaviano
makeup & hair, Phillip Kwok
digital imaging artist, Surya P. Nugroho
stylist assistant, Chekka Cuomova
model, Natalya Gumilevskaya/JIM

Could you describe our readers your first experience doing a professional styling? How you felt and what was the styling for?

First professional styling as I remember is for A+ 6^th Anniversary project. They pointed 6 photographers to interpreting 6 in fashion photos, and I was helping one of my friends that got pointed, Insan Kurniawan. It was quite rough because back then I don’t know any designers or labels or I also don’t know how the goods lending process yet. With all limited resources, finally we decided to do a beauty shoot with some accessories that I lent from my friend’s boutique and I also did the makeup. At the end, it went well, surprisingly. I was very excited that time, because I was thought this could be my chance to break into the industry and at the same time I was quite nervous to not deliver the pictures and concepts through their standards, but it’s all good.

Could you give our reader a simple picture on how you're able to borrow the wardrobes for styling projects? Who do we have to contact? And what are we responsible for?

We send the official lending letter to the PR of the labels or designers and usually they will reply it with confirmation letter, and then we bring the confirmation letter to the store/workshop and start to borrow. Usually we need to check the borrowed goods first of its conditions (any minors flaws are have to be noted down on the lending form). And after we use it on the shoots, we have to return it with the same condition, and if they think we need to do some laundry then we send it to the appointed laundry service right away.

We are usually contacting the PR or sometimes directly to the designers. So it is an important thing to built a good rapport and relations to each of them. We also have to be clear with the purposes and details of the shoot. It needs a trust and professionalism to work these out.

Basically we are responsible with all the products that we borrow. If anything happens, that’s 100% our responsibility. If it’s broken or lost, then yes you have to purchase it. That’s why I always tell my assistants to take care and look after all the goods with their life. I always said better you die and the goods are safe rather than you alive and the goods are broken or lost, because when you’re die, you’re done, but when you’re alive you need to pay back all the goods and plus you’ll lost their trust, what’s the point then, unless you’re a filthy reach with money is not an object anymore, then go ahead. I am very strict about this because most of the time I deal with luxury goods. But no matter what the prices are, all the goods need to be taken care serious and delicately.

When being a contributor editor for a magazine, do the magazines tell you what to do or is it you who decide the concept and how the dresses are going to look like?

Because I’m dealing directly with the decision maker of the magazine (e.g. Editor in Chief, Deputy Editor or Fashion Director), I have more privileges rather than others. They already know my style and capabilities, so they give me their trust 100% to do it. Usually I came up with my own concept and ideas, they only give brief about the magazine style and requirements of what’s okay and what’s not in the pictures, and also the big theme of the month, then I made a concept that still in-line with the big theme and give them the list of designers and brands that I will be using on the shoot.

Now I only work like that, because when someone asks me to contribute, I consider they already know my capability and my style.

par Glenn Prasetya

styling, Thornandes Jamesmodel

Julius Ryan Karsten/Platinvm

We understand that you first worked for SOAP, men's magazine, how was the transition from menswear to womenswear?

It’s not that hard, because I started styling for women before I work for SOAP, and in SOAP I also did styling for women (for profiles, cover story, or sometimes in fashion). What I like about SOAP, it’s a men’s magazine but they’re not selling woman and their body as a main appeal, they sell ideas and vision, so I used to treat it like any other women’s fashion but I added a hint touch of sensuality from their body language or attitude, however sex do sells, but I want to portray sexuality in a subtle and classy way, and somehow it is carried into my styling style today.

How does an advertising graduate turn to be a stylist? What experience did you encountered that you decided to turn your profession?

I already decided fashion is my thing before I was graduated. I was work full time in SOAP before I was graduated, on my last year to be exact. As I mentioned previously, I wanted to go to ESMOD but my parents disapprove me. So at that moment, my second choice was communication because I was wanted to work as an event organizer (I participated in numerous events during my high school times in Labschool and did work in some couple of event organizer as the creative team and secretary). And so during my college years I’ve built my portfolios already, and on the 3^rdyear it got more intense, I did work freelance for Free! Magazine and Tamasya Magazine, and in the 4^th year, I was accepting some commercial project for some musicians for their album covers and interning in SOAP and got promoted to be an in-house fashion editor later on. And to keep me focus in finishing my study soon, I made my thesis and all of my projects in college were related to fashion. After all I never feel connected and eye-to-eye with advertising industry since in my 2^nd year in college, but since it was my decision to take advertising as my study at the first place, so I have responsibility to finish it.

Do you enjoy being a creative consultant for Indonesian designers? Why?

I enjoy it so much! Because as a consultant you are not the boss and controlling the designer’s creation, you are paid to give inputs and constructive criticisms as well as you give them choices of solutions to it. So it’s like a partnership. I have to learn about their style, and have to put my shoes and think like them. The common mistakes when people is being hired as a consultant is they tend to drive the designers to make a creation or collection they want, and somehow it may make the designer lose their style. My job as a consultant is to keep the designers focus on the concept and shaping their collection to be relevant to the objectives or trends and gets its best on the presentation. I’ll give my point of view as a journalist, so they know what’s the weak point of the collection and they will improve and fix it before it is presented to the public. Being a consultant is a constant learning and synchronizing process that involves chemistry, trust, and psychology.

Name local and international fashion editors/ stylists that you love.

Local: Michael Pondaag

International: I don’t know, because I never follow them from the first. Yes I look at references but I used to research it after I polished my concept first, so I can’t mention any names.

par Julius Bramanto Zulkarnaen
styling, Thornandes James R.
makeup & hair, Phillip Kwok
assistant makeup & hair, Bonniedegio
assistant stylist, Rajasa Pramesywara & Retno Prasasti
model, Kotuleva Yulia Gennadevna

What are your favorite magazines (local / international)?

Local: Magazine that features my works.

International: Numero, Vogue UK, ELLE UK

Which designers (local / international) inspire you the most? Name your favorite designers.

Local:

I adore Irsan for his crazy ideas and passion to it. My conversations with him never fail to inspire and amuse me. I also adore Biyan for his magnificent presentation and his balance between the idealism and commercialism. Every presentation that he did always makes me wants to write and tell a story of it, he’s such a great storyteller through his collection and presentation.

Favorite Designers: Irsan, Biyan, and Adrian Gan

International:

Alexander McQueen, he is one of a genius both in his craftsmanship and presentation. He uses his presentation show as his art installation. I just bought his book, and I think I can make millions of concepts inspired by his works. I also adore John Galliano because he is, also, such a brilliant when making a collection and presentation, everything is just polished and impeccable. He and McQueen both share the same mind, McQueen is the dark version of Galliano, and Galliano is the pretty version of McQueen.

Favorite Designers: Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Viktor & Rolf, Alber Elbaz, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana, Stella McCartney, Raf Simons, Ricardo Tisci. Christopher Bailey, and Stefano Pilati.

If you could work with anyone, who will it be?

Numero is my obsession and who doesn’t want to work in Vogue.

What are the perks being a stylist? And what are the down sides of being a stylist?

The advantages of being stylist are sometimes you get freebies and the most important is you never stop learning. Being a stylist means you need to do research before doing something, so you always learn new things, from simple common things about fashion and trends to history or tradition or even how to hold a sword in fencing or terms in ballet or got a new life philosophy.

The down sides are there are many people still look down to this profession, people, especially commercial industry, still thinking that stylist is only a wardrobe staff and often treat us as not supposed to. You are responsible for all the goods that borrowed; it’s a job that full of risks. You also need to accommodate all the team, become a stylist for me is like a project leader, and you need to make sure everything is go well and the objectives are achieved, so you’re constantly feel nervous and thinking of backup plans etc.

par Julius Bramanto Zulkarnaen
styling, Thornandes James R.
makeup & hair, Giacomo
model, Yuliya Gennadevna

Do you have any wise advice to our readers who wanted to be a stylist/ fashion editor?

Never stop learning, respect others if you want to be respected, if you’re a newbie better to keep silence no matter what people did to you, just do your best, actions speak louder than words. There’s no instant way to be on top, people often think I was very lucky to be in this position in quite soon, but they don’t know how hard I work, my capabilities, and how long I tried to get into the industry before I made it through. Learn to embrace the process not just the results.

Movies like Devil Wears Prada and September Issue is actually a good reference to look at, but most people take it the wrong way. They try to act or try to be like Anna Wintour, the situation is far different from our industry in reality. Need to be reminded, they are Vogue US which they have the power and access in the industry worldwide, what they put in their magazine does have an impact in the world. While our media is not that powerful, we can’t be that strong opinionated kind of media, and we need good relations with designers and labels, it’s a symbiosis mutualism relationship. While the value of those movies actually you can see the process of making fashion shoots, the details in the concept, choosing topics, for articles, and all the work process and their roles in it.

People tend to think fashion is shallow glamour and easy, in fact what it seen doesn’t look like it seems, because in our industry packaging is everything. We do judge a book by it’s cover, when people say what the importance is the inside not the outside, for us, what the importance is both inside and outside, it’s a full package or not at all.

And finally, what more do you want to achieve in life?

Sky is the limit. I still want to try other things and possibilities in fashion industry. But no matter how, my heart, passion, and soul are still in media. So, maybe hopefully somewhere in the future, I will back in publication.

Thornandes James is a inspiration to all of us, at such a young age he has able to accomplished so much. Just like Anna Wintour, he had the ability to expand himself, having no satisfaction for what he has achieved and now he has broaden his horizon. If Anna Wintour is able to be a consultant for numerous house hold fashion houses the likes of Oscar De La Renta, and Proenza Schouler, Thornandes has had the privilege to be the consultant to the likes of Indonesian fashion extrodinaire such as Priyo Oktaviano and Andreas Odang.

Fashion Profile

2011-08-31T02:54:00.000-07:00

THORNANDES JAMES

JUDGE A BOOK BY IT'S COVER

For those of you who call your self devotee of Indonesian fashion, not knowing his name is no less than a sin. Graduated from London School of Public Relation majoring in advertising, Thornandes James started his career as an intern for the fashion editor at SOAP magazine. But not too long after that he has secured a position for himself in the magazine, and within 2 years he was able to call himself The Senior Fashion Editor, running the whole fashion devision of that magazine. The experience was grand, and it teaches him many lessons on fashion.

Bagi mereka yang menyebut diri mereka pengikut setia Indonesian fesyen, tidak mengetahui nama Thornandes James bisa jadi merupakan sebuah dosa. Lulus dari Sekolah Relasi Publik London School dengan jurusan periklanan, Thornandes James memulai karirnya sebagai magang bagi editor fesyen bagi majalah SOAP. Tidak lama setelah itu, sekitar dua tahun lamanya ia pun dipercayai dengan titel editor fesyen.

Photos by : Glenn Prasetya
Fashion Editor, Thornandes James
Makeup & Hair, Phillip Kwok
Assistant Stylist, Chekka & Reza Bustami
Model, Jonathan Mulia
Cover & Cover Story for SOAP Magazine August 2008

From Harper's Bazaar, to Elle, Amica, Clara and Fimela.com, all have trusted Thornandes James to do some iconic works for their magazines. Having the ability to gather up amazing labels as the wardrobes for his works.

Dimulai dari Harper's Bazaar, hingga Elle, Amica, Clara, dan Fimela.com, semua telah mempercayai James untuk mengerjakan berbagai macam proyek. James pun berkemampuan untuk meraih nama-nama kondang dunia untuk pakaian di berbagai proyeknya.

par Julius Bramanto
editor, Thornandes James
makeup & hair, Adrian Suryapradipa/B-MGT using Shu Uemura
wardrobe, Sapto Djojokartiko Couture
assistant photographer, Hendri Dinata, Retno Prasasti, Ken Arini
assistant stylist, Chekka
model, Kateryna Talanova/SUM Entertainment
Unpublished picture from Fashion Editorial AMICA Indonesia August 2010

Coming from the background of advertising he learned many things about concepts and briefs, mixing the knowledge he obtained with his passion for fashion, the mixture has driven him to explore many fields that revolves around fashion. He once dwelled with photography and beauty artistry before he found his way as a stylist, making him to understand so much more about the visual aspect of fashion.

Berasal dari latar belakang periklanan, James berlajar banyak hal mengenai konsep dan briefs, memadukan pengetahuan tersebut dengan kecintaannya terhadap fesyen, membuat James berkeinginan untuk mengekplorasi berbagai bidang. Dimulai dari fotografi, hingga kesenian make up, hingga akhirnya ia mencapai menjadi seorang stylist. James sungguh mengerti mengenai aspek visual dari fesyen.

Stylist: Thornandes James
Hair & Make Up: Andy Chun
Model: Irina Roshik
all outfit by Sally Koeswanto

These days Thornandes James is working as contributing fashion editor, fashion stylist, and the occasional creative consultant for labels such as; Andreas Odang, Barli Asmara, Chandra Black, Jeffery Tan, to Priyo Oktaviano. Building their image, collections, strategy, presentation, and publicity. A true devotee of fashion.

Hari-hari ini James berkerja sebagai kontributor di berbagai majalah, dia pun menjadi stylist, dan terkadang menjadi konsultan kreatif bagi berbagai label tanah air; Andreas Odang, Barli Asmara, Chandra Black, Jeffery Tan, hingga Priyo Oktaviano. Membangun nama mereka, koleksi mereka, hingga strategi, dan publikasi mau pun presentasi. Sungguh James merupakan seorang pecinta fesyen.

par Julius Bramanto
styling, Thornandes James
makeup & hair, Philips Kwok
assistants photographer, Retno Prasasty, Ranny Monita, Shuri
assistant stylist, Rajasa Pramesywara
model, Katya Sokolova/DAMN! Inc.
Personal Project

As a undergrad student at LSPR, he was a shy figure, studying day and night to maintain perfect grades. He is also a very value conscious man, who believes that one should always respects the senior, and must always hold their words carefully. Who says geeks can't be chic?

Sebagai mahasiswa S1 di LSPR, James merupakan sosok yang pemalu, belajar demi mempertahankan nilai yang sempurna. James juga merupakan orang yang menjunjung tinggi nilai-nilai tradisional, hormat, dan kesantunan dalam bertutur kata.

par Nicoline Patricia Malina
styling, Thornandes James for AMICA
makeup & hair, Andy Chun
assistant photographer, Tri & Ila
assistant stylist, Rajasa Pramesywara
model, Irina Roshik/LVDK
Fashion Editorial AMICA Indonesia April 2011

One thing that he is, he is true to his self, he once stated, "Orang bilang don't judge a book by it's cover, tapi balik lagi di fashion, we do judge a book by it's cover."

Satu hal James merupakan pribadi yang riil, dia pernah berkata, "Orang bilang don't judge a book by it's cover, tapi balik lagi di fashion, we do judge a book by it's cover."

par, Glenn Prasetya

styling, Thornandes James for Amica

Make Up, Andy Chun

Model, Tarah Dowling

Amica July 2010

par Giovanni Rustanto/Plankton Labs
styling, Thornandes James for AMICA
makeup & hair, Andy Chun
videographers, Hendy Sukarya & Dewi Mariam/Plankton Labs
assistant photographer, Ronald yap
assistant stylist, Rajasa Pramesywara
model, Kateryna Talanova/SUM Entertainment
location, Gunung Bale Malang
Fashion Editorial for AMICA Indonesia November 2010

Runway Spotlight

2011-08-30T02:28:00.000-07:00

PRIYO OKTAVIANO

RAINBOW OF LIFE

The year of 2010 through 2011 is marked with many scoring the "Asian Rises" theme. Designers, fashion magazines, and fashion boutiques showcased Asian influenced dresses and used many asian models. From US Vogue to Vogue China displayed many asian models for their editorial spread.

Tahun 2010 hingga 2011 ditandai dengan banyak tema "Asian Rises". Perancang busana, majalah fesyen, dan butik-butik fesyen menampilkan banyak sekali busana terinspirasi Asia, dan menggunakan banyak model-model Asia. Dimulai dari Vogue Amerika hingga Vogue China yang menampilkan banyak model asia untuk editorial mereka.

Lane Crawfor Fall Winter 2011

Editorial by American Vogue

Dresses by Proenza Schouler

American Vogue December 2010

Carolina Herrera who played with kimono inspired dresses detailed with obi belts, and Ricardo Tisci's rendition of Givenchy Spring 2011 Collection who showed origami like detail for the couture collection.

Carolina Herrera memainkan banyak busana dengan pengaruh inspirasi kimono dengan sentuhan detail sabuk obi, dan terjemahan Ricardo Tisci untuk lini couture musim Spring 2011 yang menampilkan detail dari yang menyerupai origami.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2011

Givenchy Spring 2011 Couture Collection

Whilst here in the Kathulistiwa Country, Priyo Oktaviano also showcased a very much Asian inspired Clothes for his 2011 Rainbow of Life Collection.

Sedangkan di Negeri Kathulistiwa, Priyo Oktaviano menampilkan koleksi dengan inspirasi pengaruh Asia untuk koleksi Rainbow of Life.

Photograph : Nicoline Patricia Malina

Make Up Artist : Andy Chun

Model : Irina Rozhyk

Spous by Priyo Oktaviano is a ready to wear line by Priyo Oktaviano himself. The label itself shows a more modern, urban, and yet still very conceptual prêt-à-porter clothes. Whilst his main line "Priyo Oktaviano" show a much more traditional, ethnic with a twist of modern form, conceptual collection.

Spous oleh Priyo Oktaviano adalah lini siap pakai oleh perancang kondang tersebut. Label tersebut merupakan interpretasi dari gaya yang lebih modern, urban, tetapi masih konseptual bagi lini siap pakai Priyo Oktaviano. Sedangkan lini utamanya "Priyo Oktaviano" menampilkan penampilan yang lebih tradisional, etnik, dengan sentuhan modern.

Spous's Rainbow of Life collection is a very colorful collection, the origami details of the dress really showcase Priyo's creativity and love for the avant garde like ready to wear. Some faint hearted people might not be able to wear this clothes as a ready to wear clothes, but people such as Mrs.Minnie Adjie
would probably successfully pull a look out of his collection.

Koleksi Rainbow of Life ini sangatlah berwarna, detail origami yang dipergunakan Priyo menunjukan kreativitas-nya, dan kecintaan diri-nya terhadap konsep avant garde untuk lini siap pakai. Mungkin beberapa orang dapat bertanya "apakah saya mau memakai pakaian seprti itu sehari-hari?" mungkin jawabanya "tidak" bagi mereka yang kurang berani. Walau pun demikian kita bisa menantikan profile pecinta fesyen seperti Minni Adjie untuk dapat dengan berhasil menggunakan busana dari lini ini.

The bottom line is, this collection shows that Priyo is definitely a trend conscious designer who is able to aline himself with the great designers of the world the likes of Ricardo Tisci, Caroline Herrera, or even Mr.Marc Jacob. Giving contribution to the definition of "Asian Rises".

Pada dasarnya, dapat dikatakan melalui koleksi ini bahwa Priyo Oktaviano adalah seseorang yang sangat trend conscious. Beliau dapat mensejajarkan dirinya dengan designer-designer kondang dunia seperti Ricardo Tisci, Caroline Herrera, atau bahkan Marc Jacob. Memberikan kontribusi terhadap rakyat asia dalam mendefinisikan "Asian Rises".

National Edito

2011-08-30T00:11:00.000-07:00

There's a lot to say about Indonesian culture and society, but ultimately it's revival from the era of pre modernism that has taken my interest to speak about it this blog. Fascination. Awe. And blown away i am. Indonesian revival of creative industry has inspired me to write about it.

Fashion1707 in a way is a national edito, showcasing Indonesian talents and savvy fashion forces. Where it's purpose is to give a platform to the international eye of what Indonesia has to offer. Starting from our established house hold fashion giants such as Biyan, Ghea Panggabean, Priyo Oktaviano, to Indonesian young bright stars such as Nikicio, and Danjyo Hiyoji, or even the struggling yet talented indie labels.

But that's not all that we're going to showcase; Photographers, Models, Stylists, Editors, and even Fashion Bloggers who are the soul and heart of Indonesian Fashion culture will also be showcased in this blog. We existed because of people like you, The Fashionably Savvy People, who breathe, sweat, speak, and think about Fashion.

It will be a sin not to share the savviness of these talents with the rest of the world.

Fashion1707