Fashion 1707: DEWI FASHION KNIGHTS

RUNWAY REPORT

DEWI MAGAZINE CELEBRATES WOMEN

Picture Courtesy of Viva News

It was a pitch black scene, whereas whispers, and small clicking noises of cameras were heard across the hallow tent of Jakarta Fashion Week, Indonesia's fashion royals were waiting anxiously for Dewi's Fashion Knights show to start. Dewi Fashion Knights is an annual show which showcases Indonesian most prominent fashion designers, and this year Dewi Magazine has chose the theme of Celebrating Women, where Auguste Soesatro, Sally Koeswanto, Sapto Djojokartiko, Sebastian Gunawan, and Indonesia's current rising dark horse Tex Saverio will present their new collection. As the show was starting, the black scenery was broken by a dramatic lullaby and a graphic on the backdrop screen of the runway spelling the name Sebastian Gunawan. And the show began, and we from Fashion 1707 have all the exclusive details.

Seiring dengan pemandangan yang begitu gelap, bisikan, dan suara clicking dari kamera para fotografer mengisi tenda keramat dari Jakarta Fashion Week, dimana para bangsawan fesyen Indonesia sedang menunggu dengan penuh antisipasi untuk dimulainya acara Dewi Fashion Knights. Dewi Fashion Knights adalah sebuah acara tahunan yang mempertunjukan para maestro fesyen desainer Indonesia, dan tahun ini Majalah Dewi telah memilih sebuah tema; Celebrating Women untuk mengikat show yang paling dinanti dalam Jakarta Fashion Week ini. Auguste Soesastro, Sally Koeswanto, Sapto Djojokartiko, Sebastian Gunawan, dan Tex Saverio sang talenta yang tengah mengundang begitu banyak perhatian akan menunjukan koleksi terbaru mereka. Kegelapan tersebut pun dipecahkan dengan iringan musik dramatis dan sebuah grafik pada backdrop screen yang mengeja Sebastian Gunawan. Dan acara pun dimulai, tim Fashion 1707 pun hadir untuk melaporkannya secara eksklusif.

SEBASTIAN GUNAWAN

Bold, daring, yet wearable was the first impression that struck us who attend the show. Models were dressed in a cleverly tribal inspired printed dresses, creating a cohesive look through out the entire collection that showed the story of an elegant, sophisticated, edgy, value oriented tribal women. In a way Sebastian was trying to create a look that celebrate women who are strong, full of elegance and finesse, and very edgy, creating looks that clashes between a tribal women with an out of this world dark noble creature, the story was emphasized with dramatic tune that was played to tie the whole presentation and a graphic video of red sand dune desert was playing on the backdrop. Stiff black fringes accessorized the pieces, creating an edge for the loose drapery dresses by Heliopolis.

Black, white, red, yellow dominated the collection in a tribal print, Sebastian also played with sheer fabrics, and silks that are loose but with an added edge by making a structured shape using shoulder pads and stiff black fringes. Dresses in a-line shaped hanged above the knee may seem to be too vulgar but were made demure and bold in its pairing with tabasco red stockings and matching red wedge-like heels. There were also high waisted loose strapless gowns, halter dresses, and even two pieces look from sleeveless black laced white top with an oxford collar paired with a printed skirts. The tribal print was the highlight of the collection, it is truly an amazing wearable collection.

Bold, daring, tetapi masih bisa dikenakan merupakan impresi pertama kami yang hadir di acara tersebut. Para model mengenakan gaun-gaun bercorak tribal menciptakan looks yang kohesif untuk seluruh koleksi Sebastian Gunawan. Cerita di balik koleksi tersebut seakan-akan menceritakan essensi wanita yang elegant, edgy, tetapi masih berorientasi nilai luhur, seorang wanita tribal yang kuat, penuh dengan keanggunan dan finesse. Terdapat perpaduan dramatisasi cerita antara seorang wanita kesukuan dengan mahluk gelap berdarah bangsawan, dramatisasi ini pun digarisbawahi dengan iringan lagu dramatis, dan video grafik akan padang pasir merah. Rumbai kaku hitam pun mengaksesoriskan potongan-potongan koleksi Sebastian, memberikan edge bagi gaun yang loose tersebut oleh Heliopolis.

Hitam, putih, merah, dan kuning mendominasi koleksi yang ada dengan perpaduan corak tribal, Sebastian pun bermain dengan berbagai kain transparan, dan kain sutera yang loose tetapi diberikan edge dengan memberikan struktur bentuk dalam shoulder pads, dan rumbai hitam kaku. Gaun dalam potongan a-line menggantung diatas dengkul mungkin terlihat begitu vulgar, tetapi berhasil dibuat demure dengan menggunakan stocking berwarna merah tabasco dan sepatu berbentuk wedge-like heels. Selain itu juga terdapat high waisted strapless printed gowns, gaun halter, dan beberapa two pieces look dimana Sebastian memasangkan top putih tanpa lengan yang dihiasi dengan renda hitam dan dengan kerah oxford. Corak tribal merupakan atraksi utama dari koleksi Sebastian, sebuah koleksi yang sungguh dapat dikenakan.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

AUGUSTE SOESASTRO

As the glossy black runway was reflecting the video backdrop of Auguste Soesastro's testimonials the same thing goes on for Auguste's collection, the difference is; Auguste's collection is reflecting his life purpose on creating a line which pays tributes to the earth. Couture which comes from natural fibre, a tribute to earth is Auguste's credo, and we really do see his passion for mother earth from his collection. Out of the 5 designers that showcased their collection, we have to say that his collection probably is the most emotional imprinted show of them all. The first look was this petite model with almost nude make up, with her hair pulled up into a bun wearing a two piece look in cream and white, it was an outfit out of a perfectly tailored pants with an structural oversized jacket over an oversized top. As the models were gracefully taking slow steps over one feet on the other we noticed the cream and transparent Manolo Blahnik kitten heels the models are wearing.

Melodramatic tune and a visual graphic of a deserted desert with a death tree standing awkwardly on the middle of it accompanied the models in the runway presentation. Clinical; where the color of cream dominated the collection, and demure; with the simple yet polished craftsmanship of the pieces, the collection is elegant with that understated femme sophistication, something that's truly is suitable for professional women in the world. Our favorite look was when this model comes out with what at first seems like a deconstructed orange silk dress, but as the she was walking she opened the dress up into a huge coat with a floor length black dress in it. What so special about the show was the closing look, it was a model with two child model wearing a cream crisp gown with long cape as its train and as they were walking through the runway the dramatic tune climaxes the story where you would definitely feel the homage that Auguste is trying to pay to mother earth, in a way the model is portraying the goodness within mother earth; a mother with her children.

Sebagaimana runway hitam yang glossy tersebut merefleksikan semua visual feast dari screen backdrop runway tersebut, hal yang sama juga dapat dikatakan pada koleksi Auguste Soesastro. Perbedaannya koleksi Auguste merefleksikan tujuan hidup Auguste yang mencoba untuk menciptakan sebuah lini yang memberikan tribute kepada bumi pertiwi. Couture which comes from natural fibre, a tribute to earth; adalah credo dari Auguste. Dapat dikatakan bahwa dari kelima show yang telah dilaksanakan di dalam Dewi Fashion Knights, presentasi dari Auguste inilah yang berhasil menyentuh hati kami secara emosional. Tampilan pertama merupakan seorang model mungil dengan make up yang hampir nude, dengan rambut diikat menjadi bun yang menggunakan sebuah tailored pants dengan oversized jacket diatas sebuah oversized top yang berwarna cream dan putih. Seiring para model dengan penuh keanggunan secara perlahan mengambil langkah mereka, terlihatlah kitten heels Manolo Blahnik dengan perpaduan bahan warna cream dan transparnt yang begitu demure. Nada lantunan melodramatis dengan video yang menampilkan sebuah padang pasir dengan pohon kering berdiri dengan awkward ditengah gurun tersebut.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

SALLY KOESWANTO

Heritage and culture in fashion is something inspiring but when it's mixed with today's modern take and philosophy it becomes something extraordinary, Sally Koeswanto's collection is full of both; heritage and modern take philosophy. It becomes something that's out of this world and extraordinary. You can definitely tell the story she was trying to the deliver in her presentation, an evolution of women in the personification of a magnificent creature with poise and grand elegance just like a peacock.

Leather, sequins, metallics, and lace in leotards, halter tops, and backless gowns. The whole look of Sally's designs gave a sultry feel that is both strong and embodies flirtation. Sally Koeswanto delivers a collection that's full of asian heritage, playing with cheongsam and kimono top where the traditional look was made modern with the use of bold colors and accessories. Sally tried to celebrate all different kinds of women; one that's strong; with the use of laced top blue pastel leotard and gladiator detailed leather pants, one that's full of poise; with the use a bold metallic cheongsam with peacock tail embroidery details, and one that's edgy and fun; with the use of and oversized kimono top paired with a cream short and a gladiator boots. We could definitely say that Sally really does succeed to celebrate Asian women with a modern take that is both sensual and strong.

Warisan dan budaya merupakan sesuatu yang sering kali menjadi sumber inspirasi di dunia fesyen, tetapi ketika inspirasi dipadukan dengan tanggapan yang moderen, warisan tersebut menjadi sesuatu yang sangat menajubkan. Koleksi Sally Koeswanto mennujukan suatu koleksi yang penuh dengan warisan dan pandangan moderen, koleksinya seolah-olah menceritakan sesuatu yang berasal dari luar dunia dimana terdapat perpaduan menarik antara wanita yang menggunakan pakaiannya. Cerita akan evolusi wanita dipersonifikasikan dengan mahluk anggun yang penuh dengan poise seumpama seekor burung cendrawasih.

Kulit, manik-manik, warna metalik, dan renda dipadukan dalam tampilan leotards, atasan halter, dan gaun backless. Seluruh penampilan yang diberikan oleh Sally menunjukan suatu perasaan yang sensual dan tetap kuat. Desain yang diberikan mempersembahkan warisan Asia dimana Sally bermain dengan bentuk cheongsam, dan kimono top yang merupakan sesuatu yang tadinya tradisional tetapi dibuat moderen dengan penggunaan warna yang bold, dan aksesoris. Kami dapat berkata bahwa Sally sungguh-sungguh merayakan wanita Asia dengan pandangan moderen akan sensualitas dan penuh dengan kekuatan.

Picture Courtesy of Viva News and Jakarta Fashion Week Committee

SAPTO DJOJOKARTIKO

Great craftsmanship combined with great designs creates great fashion that is Sapto Djojokartiko. This maestro never fails to amaze us who's been in awe since the very first time we saw his creations. It was a twist of sophistication with what we call as "dramatic glamour", where the use of great embroidery, avant-garde lace, and the unconventional brooch made it a raw yet magnificent collection. Gold, black, shimmering silver and copper colored dresses were presented through out the show with models in towering wedges, Sapto even uses once again his iconic fur extensions as the mermaid bottom for one of his dress. The models had straight hairs, and were accessorized with laced mask and shimmering mask making the story of a dark goddesses that is poise and full of dramatic glamour. It was a celebration of women with a sense of passion for something that's unconventionally dark but still urges for glamour.

Teknik eksekusi yang baik dipadukan dengan desain yang indah menciptakan fesyen yang menajubkan dalam nama Sapto Djojokartiko. Maestro ini tidak pernah gagal dalam mempesona kami yang telah jatuh cinta sejak pertmaa kali kami melihat koleksinya. Dalam Dewi Fashion Knights 2011, Sapto memberikan koleksi yang penuh dengan keanggunan diselaraskan dengan apa yang kami sebut dengan glamour yang penuh dengan drama, dimana penggunaan embroidey, renda yang avant-garde, dan penggunaan peniti yang tidak konvensional memberikan sebuah koleksi yang penuh dengan keagunagan yang terasa begitu baru dan mentah. Emas, hitam, shimmering silver, dan tembaga menjadi warna untuk gaun-gaun yang diciptakan oleh Sapto, dan Sapto pun menggunakan kembali bulu ekstension yang tadinya ia gunakan di dalam koleksi lalu-nya untuk salah satu mermaid bottom dalam gaunnya.